[BUG] Game crashes after joining server on AMD BULLDOZER CPU

Right, brand-new pc and i download xon, go in a server and BOOM! My pc restarts.

Specs:
processor-AMD FX 4170
mobo- Asrock 970de3 u3s3(1.30(stock) amibios version)
cpu fan- stock amd
hard drive- ATA 160 gb
RAM- 8 gb corsair
650watt CIT psu

Things i noticed... all tests done with only win 7 desktop and google chrome on xonotic forums
+With the case cover on, the fan quickly speeds up.
-Ventilation problem?
--No, it even rebooted then (but more time passed since server join)

-Bios problems/bios needs update?
--Ppl did say on cs:go forums about AMD bulldozer cpu crashes the game and said about a bios update solves it.

+When wiring the rig up, the mobo needed a 8 pin 12 v plug but the psu only had a 4.
-New psu/converter cable?
--The fucking psu manual said it had an 8 pinner but where the fuck is it on the real thing?

Or is it something else? Do note i live in spain with 40ºC summers

*Admin note: can i get a sticky? because since the fx 4170 came on the market at a decent price and 4.2ghz each of the four cores, more ppl may be buying it.

I don't think a sticky is warranted if the issue isn't solved though. And as far as I'm concerned, I pay much less attention to sticky threads.

What about if you start the single player game? Still crashes?

Are you playing with xonotic.exe or xonotic-sdl.exe? One or other version may be faster or suffer from problems, particularly with sound.

What graphics card are you using? If this is with AMD onboard graphics then I would think this would be a likely cause of problems. What drivers are you using? Have you tried any other drivers? Try starting the game and turning down the graphics settings. Load the game > Settings > Effects > click the 'low' button > then click 'Apply'. This will give you the low graphics option which may perhaps give less problems.

Try these few points and see.

No more messages contain "mississippi".

/bummer

tried gl and sdl but its the same, but i have found a temporal solution.
underclock the processor to nearly 4GHz (but i want what i payed for)
so is it something to do with the 4+12v pin psu on an 8+12v pin mobo?

4.2ghz certainly is high. Could easily be a power issue or voltage problem. Check your temperatures with Hardware Monitor or Speedfan. Also, look at your voltages and stuff using cpu-z. Oh and stress test your CPU for a while. If it crashes, you know it's unstable.

What RAM speeds are you running? Updated your Bios? Running CPU heavy stuff in the background?

tried gl and sdl but its the same, but i have found a temporal solution.
underclock the processor to nearly 4GHz (but i want what i payed for)
so is it something to do with the 4+12v pin psu on an 8+12v pin mobo?

That sounds plausible to me... certainly if the cpu is under load and not getting enough power, it will crash. Does this happen with other games or programs? Run a prim95 torture test. If it crashes, it's probably the lack of power.

Never heard of this "CIT" brand, the lack of 8pin (and with a power hungry cpu, that's far from ideal) these days does suggest its some sorta budget/generic thing. If there is one thing you should never cheap out on its the PSU. Better a well known and reviewed 500w then a 800w made by randomcorp©

Hang on, we might be getting a bit ahead of ourselves here. 4.2GHz is high, yes, but that's what this CPU is clocked at! After 10 years since the 3GHz barrier was broken there finally is a 4GHz CPU, there should be no need to underclock it.

@Droid:
1. Does just the game crash or does the whole system lock up?
2. What graphics card are you using?

If the whole system locks up then yes, a power issue could be possible. If only the game itself crashes and you are returned to Windows then it is not a power issue.

This is a 125W TDP CPU so an 8-pin 12V connector would be expected. Rather than underclocking to test such a hypothesis, undervolting+underclocking will give you a much deeper TDP reduction so would show up if it's a power issue or not.

Does anything else cause this crashing? Download Prime95 and see what happens when you stress all 4 cores. This is a much harder CPU test than Xonotic, if it does not crash then it is not CPU power related.

I would still go with a graphics issue here but if you want my opinion on PSUs, a Seasonic G-360 will cover virtually all systems and if you've got money to spend and ACTUALLY need more power then there's the X-400, X-460 and Platinum 520 fanless. Kilowatt PSUs are generally bought by people who don't know how much power their computer uses.

-rocknroll237
Check your temperatures with Hardware Monitor or Speedfan.
51~53ºC
What RAM speeds are you running? 1600 mhz
Updated your Bios? Yes.
Running CPU heavy stuff in the background? No, Steam only.
-edh post 1
Yes. Singleplayer still crashes.
-edh post 2
I ran a prime95 test and it crahed.

My gpuis the same as the old pc just changed the box where its in.

-Conclusion: Power Issue, CIT are fucking trolls.

---

But now i want a solution...
Does any1 know a decent priced psu higher than 550w?
Or a sata power cable/molex to 8,12v mobo cable?

I ran a prime95 test and it crahed.

Is this crashing out to Windows or hanging the computer? This makes a huge difference.

OK, so it /could/ be a power issue but a new PSU just to test such a hypothesis is a risk, you might then find it still happens. See if you can borrow another PSU from a friend to test.

I would also try the deep underclock/undervolt route to see if at some point it does work correctly.

My gpuis the same as the old pc just changed the box where its in.

Still, what is your graphics card? This is relevant in knowing the power supply load we should be considering here and what connectors you may need.

Does any1 know a decent priced psu higher than 550w?

There is a lot of misinformation about levels of power supplies needed. Many people waste money on bigger units than they need and also at a cost of worse effciency. If you're not looking to spend a huge amount then the Seasonic G series is very good, 80+ gold rated and quiet. The 450W model upwards are modular.

Or a sata power cable/molex to 8,12v mobo cable?

While you can do this and it will spread the 12V load onto another rail, it won't necessarily fix the problem as it could be across all of the rails that the problem exists. It is cheaper than a new PSU though so here's an example of what you might find with a search on Ebay:
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/310370512...adtype=pla

I ran a prime95 test and it crahed.

Is this crashing out to Windows or hanging the computer?
No. Nothing works except the screen showing the blocked desktop and then it reboots

I would also try the deep underclock/undervolt route to see if at some point it does work correctly.
-It works correcctly at ~2ghz (FUUUUUUUUU!)


Still, what is your graphics card?
-Nvidia geforce 8500 gt, might be replacing with a radeon hd 7950? Reccomend me a good decent priced one 150-200€ ish (off-topic)

There is a lot of misinformation about levels of power supplies needed.
-My total using outervision is 463 watt but i got a 650 because of futureproofing. (2 Blu rays recorder, 2 gpus 1 tv card 1case fan 1 water cooling)

While you can do this and it will spread the 12V load onto another rail, it won't necessarily fix the problem as it could be across all of the rails that the problem exists. It is cheaper than a new PSU though so here's an example of what you might find with a search on Ebay:
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/310370512...adtype=pla

-Would this work too? http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-inch-Pi...656&sr=8-2

• You might want to get a gtx 660ti: http://www.google.co.uk/#q=gtx+660&hl=en...20&bih=955
  
• If I were you, I'd replace that PSU with one made by a good company like Antec, Corsair, OCZ, Coolermaster, etc. NEVER EVER BUY A CHEAP PSU FROM A BRAND NO-ONE HAS HEARD OF! THE CHANCES OF IT FAILING ARE HIGH!
  
• I'm not sure about the cables, but I'm sure someone else can help you with that.
  

It works correcctly at ~2ghz (FUUUUUUUUU!)

That would suggest a TDP of ~60W is OK. Thinking about this, a molex adaptor is unlikely to help as 125W sounds like too much to draw through a single cable. This is why the ATX12V cables were introduced as a separate connector design for the high current needed at 12V that used to be carried at 5V and 3.3V on the normal ATX connector.

Nvidia geforce 8500 gt, might be replacing with a radeon hd 7950? Reccomend me a good decent priced one 150-200€ ish (off-topic)

As Xonotic is OpenGL I would recommend NVIDIA for this clearly. The GTX660 Ti will be too expensive if you are looking at up to €200. The GTX660 is right at the top end of this, the GTX650 is much cheaper but there will be a GTX650 Ti fitting in between soon.

My total using outervision is 463 watt

I never trust PSU calculators. My system is listed as 253W but actually measures around 130W under Prime95 + Furmark even before I start the undervolting. I'd put your system at around 200W. The cost of an AC power monitor is much less than the cost of a bigger PSU so it is something worth having. Every house should have oneto check power consumption of appliances too!

but i got a 650 because of futureproofing.

We are now at a point where computer power consumption is coming down, not going up. Future proofing by adding watts is rarely effective as you can now see, your PSU does not have an 8-pin ATX12V connector so was not futureproof. The connectors, standards compliance and reliability of a PSU influence it's future proofing, not how many watts it's rated at.

Would this work too? http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-inch-Pi...656&sr=8-2

This is better. This takes the existing 4-pin ATX12V and supplements it with a molex connector to give an 8-pin. Whether or not this will work with your particular PSU is still to be seen but this is much cheaper than a new PSU so try it.

If I were you, I'd replace that PSU with one made by a good company like Antec, Corsair, OCZ, Coolermaster, etc. NEVER EVER BUY A CHEAP PSU FROM A BRAND NO-ONE HAS HEARD OF! THE CHANCES OF IT FAILING ARE HIGH!

I'm afraid there's more too it... While brands like OCZ, Coolermaster et al might be well known, they don't build their own PSUs. If you buy a PSU from Corsair then they're all Seasonic's underneath as are quite a few brands. The trouble is, you don't always know what you're getting so one model might be a Seasonic, another an FSP and another a Magic Panda Childcare, Electronics and Industrial Pesticides Corporation. They even may move OEM and still brand the product the same.

Companies that build their own PSUs include Seasonic, FSP and Enermax. I don't like Enermax anymore after mixed experiences from many people with the Pro/Modu82+ models. I would strongly, strongly recommend anything by Seasonic. They don't make crap PSUs for rebadging, all their OEM stuff is excellent. I would also suggest a Seasonic over an Antec, Corsair or any of the other companies that offer rebadged Seasonics. All you're doing there is spending for a bit more advertising and bright packaging and Seasonic offers the better warranty anyway.

For more reading on PSUs the only site I trust is silentpcreview.com:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/section10.html

Would definitely suggest a Seasonic G-450.

Reviews seem to be good: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/S...eview/1634

One thing i have noticed is that (on the main menu) since the processor is so powerful it works like a gpu!! With my old Pentium D 3Ghz framerates were 100-130 fps.
Now its 160-180 so i dont think ill be needing one.

But now i have a problem...
What are the default voltage and wattage values for the processor uding ASRock OC tool?
(i have messed so much with it)

http://reviews.cnet.com/processors/amd-b...88694.html

http://www.overclock.net/t/1302097/fx-41...ck-voltage

Still doesnt work, cable arrived today